Paris

Restaurants

Most restaurants include tax and a 12-15% service charge in their prices. If service is good, guests will often leave an extra €2 tip or the small change from their bill, if they pay in cash. If service is not included, it is customary to leave a 12-15% tip. 

The following hotels have been grouped into four price categories:
$$$$ (over €100)
$$$ (€60 to €100)
$$ (€30 to €60)
$ (under €30)
These prices are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include tax and service charge.

Gastronomic

L’Ambroisie
The atmosphere in place des Vosges (one of the most beautiful and intimate squares in Paris) exudes into the ultra chic L’Ambroisie, which is situated in a genuine hôtel particulier (private hotel). Classic French cuisine is served to pure perfection in these refined interiors decorated with rich tapestries. The menu changes according to the best fresh produce available and prices are steep. Diners can expect such delights as sea bass with olive oil emulsion, chanterelle and boletus mushrooms, and millefeuille with crystallised rhubarb. Wines are likewise expensive but the range is exceptional. Closed Sunday and Monday.

9 place des Vosges, 4th
Tel: (01) 4278 5145.
Price: $$$$

L’Arpège 
Alain Passard has drawn on his family history to produce a restaurant renowned for superb, seasonal cuisine. His grandmother’s portrait hangs on the otherwise minimalist walls and it is her cooking and joie de vivre that is the source of Alain Passard’s inspiration. The restaurant is named in honor of his musical parents and to set the tone for the harmony of flavors. Passard’s menu places emphasis on fresh vegetables, fish and white meat. Dishes include lobster carpaccio with olive oil and caviar, fragrant stuffed tomatoes or strawberries scented with hibiscus petals.  Closed Saturday and Sunday.

84 rue de Varenne, 7th
Tel: (01) 4705 0906.
Website: http://www.alain-passard.com/
Price: $$$$

Pierre Gagnaire 
This sumptuous restaurant has the reputation of being among the most exciting gastronomic addresses in Paris and it is certainly one of the most fashionable. Formerly based in St-Etienne, near the gastronomic capital Lyon, Gagnaire brought flavours of that region to Paris in his imaginative menus, which hold dear both tradition and innovation. A simple but refined décor, with spotless white tablecloths, makes the perfect setting for his challenging but impeccable cuisine. Specialities include suprême de poularde macérée au lait d’amande (chicken supreme cooked in almond milk) and pesto de roquette sauvage (wild rocket pesto). Look out for the ‘grand dessert’ - an indulgent dessert that includes pistachio ice cream and an explosion of chocolate. Closed Saturday.

Hotel Balzac, 6 rue Balzac, 8th
Tel: (01) 5836 1250.
Website: http://www.pierregagnaire.com/
Price: $$

Restaurant Plaza Athénée
Alain Ducasse was awarded three Michelin stars within eight months of first opening his Paris restaurant in 1996, at 59 avenue Raymond Poincare, 16th, where he took over from star chef Joel Robuchon after moving to the capital from Monte Carlo. In 2000, Ducasse moved the restaurant to a chic new venue in the 8th, opening the Restaurant Plaza Athénée - a sumptuously stylish venue with soaring ceilings, warm tones and splendid chandeliers. Dishes include creations such as langoustine avec une crème citronnée (langoustine in a lemon cream sauce). Advance booking is strongly recommended. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Hotel Plaza Athénée, 25 avenue Montaigne, 8th
Tel: (01) 5367 6500.
Website: http://www.alain-ducasse.com/
Price: $$$$

Senderens
Alain Senderens’ three-Michelin-starred restaurant is at the pinnacle of Parisian gastronomy, situated in a grand fin de siècle-setting in chic place de la Madeleine. The first of the Michelin-starred restaurants to serve wine by the glass, Senderens believes that each dish deserves a wine of its own to perfect the flavors, though the prices may put off those not dining on expense accounts. The wine list is outstanding, with vintage Bordeaux from the 1940s. Dishes include pan-fried chicken with cep risotto, roast duck with honey and spices, roast lamb with aubergines or pan-fried lobster served with polenta. No lunch Saturday and Monday. Closed all day Sunday.

9 place de la Madeleine, 8th
Tel: (01) 4265 2290.
Website: http://www.lucascarton.com/
Price: $$$$

Business

Bistrot de l’Etoile
Some Parisian brasseries have become a little old fashioned and bistros are now all the rage for filling up late at night. Meals, such as duck foie gras with rocket salad, are served until 2330/2400, well after traditional restaurants have closed. Other highlights on the menu include langoustine ravioli with red peppers and a divine crème brulée. The atmosphere here is best described as chic decontracté(smart but relaxed) with a light and airy feel to the main dining room.

75 avenue Niel, 17th
Tel: (01) 4227 8844.
Website: http://www.bistrotetoile.com/
Price: $$$

Bofinger
Frédéric Bofinger first set up a restaurant on this Bastille location in 1864. This convivial art nouveau brasserie exudes the unique atmosphere of Paris, as the business community forgets about the office for an hour or two, while tucking into classics such as steak tartare, salade mixte or shellfish. The highlight for real seafood lovers is Le Prestige - that features lobster, crab, langoustines, a dozen oysters, mussels and sea snails amongst other fresh delights. Another speciality is the sauerkraut dishes. There is a real buzz here that is so sadly lacking in many of the rival brasseries and booking ahead is advised. The two- and three-course menus are excellent value. There are 15% discounts for Internet bookings.

5-7 rue de la Bastille, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 8782.
Website: http://www.bofingerparis.com/
Price: $$

Le Carré des Feuillants
One of the least understood chefs in Paris (perhaps because he avoids snobbery at any cost) Alain Dutournier brought his love of meat and fine fresh ingredients from the Basque country. The wooden interior of Le Carré des Feuillants is cosy but stylish with Murano glass chandeliers and contemporary artwork, though it is not by any means as lavish as many of the city’s finest restaurants. Specialties include roast guinea fowl in a wild mushroom sauce or roast lobster with garlic and pepper nougatine, but this is really the place to enjoy a steak to remember. Fixed priced menus can be of varying quality, so it is best to stick to à la carte.

14 rue de Castiglionne, 1st
Tel: (01) 4286 8282.
Website: http://www.carredesfeuillants.fr/
Price: $$$$

Chez Justine
If entertaining a ‘new media’ client, or just needing a venue out of the ordinary for a client low on formality, then  Chez Justine fits the bill. In raffish Menilmontant this fun and funky café opposite the legendary Café Charbon serves up some of the best value lunches in Paris. Where else can diners enjoy a starter of bone marrow and toast, a rack of veal and dessert for under €20; they even throw in a cup of coffee afterwards. The only danger in this genuinely bohemian haunt is that savvy clients may want to stay all day and start on the similarly good value wines and cocktails.

96 Rue Oberkampf, 11th
Tel: (01) 4357 4403. 
Price: $-$$

Trendy

Georges
Georges, decorated in a style that matches the modern Centre Georges Pompidou, is the latest creation from the trend-setting Costes brothers. The restaurant’s location on the sixth floor of the Pompidou Centre draws huge crowds, who come for the superb views across the city. A chic but trendy clientele dine here, while students often come to take a coffee break before diving back into their studies at the Pompidou library. The menu, which includes both French and international cuisine, changes frequently, although the duck, the lobster risotto and the chocolate tart are firm house favourites. Closed Tuesday.

Centre Georges Pompidou, 6th floor, rue Rabuteau, 4th
Tel: (01) 4478 4799.
Price: $$-$$$

Spoon, Food & Wine
Star chef Alain Ducasse forsakes classic French food for an Asian-inspired international cuisine where anything goes but it is all blended beautifully together. Expect copious portions and a trendy crowd. Guests can take a quick bite to eat from Japanese-style bento boxes at the bar, or indulge in a leisurely meal in the main area. Dishes in this minimalist-style restaurant include tofu and noodles or spiced chicken in coconut milk. The wine list is extensive, with a particularly wide choice of Californian wines. Closed weekends.

14 rue Marignan, 8th
Tel: (01) 4076 3444.
Website: http://www.spoon.tm.fr/
Price: $-$$

Anyone wanting to really mix it with the style crowd and have an ‘authentic’ Parisian night out should break east to raffish Ménilmontant, which boasts a sophisticated and eclectic nightlife scene that was kicked off by the legendary Café Charbon on rue de Oberkampf, a street now overflowing with bars. The smart money is on Belleville being the next new ‘in’ place, though the scene in this rough-around-the-edges part of town is far less obvious and it is just that bit further from the center.

Back in the heart of the city, the Marais has managed an impressive renaissance of late and now offers plenty of bars, chic cafes and a perhaps surprisingly active gay and lesbian scene.

The minimum legal age for drinking alcohol (beer and wine) is 16 years of age, rising to 18 years for stronger drinks and spirits. The average price of a drink while out and about in Paris is €5, although prices can vary dramatically depending on the location. Bars are usually licensed until 0100 but this does vary according to the individual venue and area. Bouncers frequently turn potential punters away and many of the smarter clubs are (or claim to be) private. There is no sure way of gaining admission, although being foreign, dressed identically to everyone inside, accompanied by a regular or simply beautiful helps. Admission prices (usually around €15-20) often include one free drink. Clubs open at around 2300 and tend not to close until dawn.

Pariscope (website: http://www.pariscope.com/) is one of the best sources of information for nightlife listings.

Bars: The lines between cafés and bars in Paris are very blurred, with cafés where you can settle in with a beer and a croissant for breakfast and bars when you can enjoy a late night sandwich along with your cocktail.

The once trendy Buddha Bar, 8 bis rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8th, has lost much of its shine, with the bars in Ménilmontant now the place to see and be seen. Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 11th, the bar that kicked the rejuvenation of the area is still going strong and has stayed at the head of the game by adding a club venue, while Le Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf, 11th, so called because of its toolbox decor, is one of most popular bars in the area with a grungy feel. The scene in Ménilmontant is constantly evolving so visitors are advised to just wander around rue de Oberkampf and explore some its side streets for the latest ‘in’ bar as the cool crowd increasingly move away from the bright lights and tourists on the main drag. For those wanting something more central, the people behind Café Charbon have recently opened a funky new bar/restaurant, De la Ville Café, 34 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, which is a current favouite of the Parisian smart set and savvy visitors.

The Marais (3rd and 4th) is packed with a happy mélange of gay and straight bars. Vibrant gay bars include the Coffe Shop, 3 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, and Amnesia, 42 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th. Le Central, 33 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, is one of the city’s oldest gay bars, with a more sedate clientele. There are also a number of quirky little straight bars in and around rue Vieille-du-Temple, including La Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue du Trésor, 4th, with its ceiling decorated with Frisian cows and a lovely terrace, Au Petit Fer à Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, named after its huge horseshoe-shaped bar, and L’Etoile Manquante, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th.


Clubs: Techno, house, garage and Latino are the popular sounds of Paris and, to a lesser extent, hip hop and drum and bass. Top DJs play house tunes at Le Queen, 102 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th, a gay club that is still considered one of the best clubs in Paris despite the influx of tourists. Thursday and Saturday is gay only, with drag queens in profusion. Le Divan du Monde, located in the Pigalle district, at 75 rue des Martyrs, 18th (website: www.divandumonde.com), once hosted Toulouse-Lautrec but now draws a crowd that changes radically according to the evening’s programme - Brazilian, tango, indie, rock, house and hip hop nights alternate with top French and international DJs. Le Saint, 7 rue St-Séverin, 5th, which plays disco, house and salsa, is inexpensive and relaxed. Les Bains Douches, 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 3rd (website: www.lesbainsdouches.net), a former Turkish bathhouse transformed into the most pretentious of clubs, is enjoying renewed popularity under new ownership. Batofar, 11 quai Francois-Mauriac, 13th, is a fun little club housed in a boat on the Seine that boasts a wide range of musical styles.

Live Music: Le Divan du Monde (see Clubs above) hosts intimate pop concerts, providing a chance to see the stars close up. Live jazz is played by local and international high-calibre musicians at Le Bilboquet, 13 rue St-Benoît, 6th, nightly (from around 2200 onwards). There is no admission charge but drinks are priced at about €20. A young, unsophisticated crowd is drawn to La Flèche d’Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th (website: www.flechedor.fr), a converted station turned live-music venue, on the edge of trendy Ménilmontant. Concerts run from Thursday to Sunday evenings and the music ranges from rock to blues or reggae and satirical French chansons. Chesterfield Café, 124 rue La Boétie, 8th, situated just off avenue des Champs-Elysées, is popular with expats and hosts US rock and blues bands. To guarantee a seat, it is wise to book a table. Major rock concerts take place at the Palais des Congrès, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th (website: www.palaisdescongres-paris.com). The Opus Jazz and Blues Restaurant, 167 quai Valmy, 10th, in the upcoming Canal de Saint Martin area, offers good food and an eclectic selection of music, from aspiring Parisian youths through to more established acts.