An Insider’s Guide To Marrakech

While Ifrach loves Moroccan cuisine ("you haven’t eaten if you haven’t tried a lamb tagine with prunes., or eaten couscous with your hands," he says), sometimes he longs for the meals of his youth in the Middle East. When those cravings strike, he heads to Azar (Rue de Yougoslavie, near Boulevard Hassan II, Gueliz; +212-5-2443-0920), an elegant Lebanese restaurant in the Gueliz neighborhood. “Eating here takes me back in time to my beloved Israel,” he notes. “And I always take out-of-town visitors here.” In spaces adorned with colorful pillows, carved paneling, and mod-inspired chairs, hot and cold mezzes (Ifrach says the hummus and babaganoush are musts) are served along with grilled and spit-fired dishes. Eve some Moroccan classics like tagines and pastilla make an appearance. “Another plus is that they often have live music and dance performances during dinner,” Ifrach says.

For centuries, Marrakech sat along a key trade route through North Africa, making it an important commerce center for goods from all over the continent. Today, along with the souks focusing on Moroccan-made items (like spices and lamps, rugs and leather goods), you’ll also find an African Market filled with items from dozens of nearby and sub-Saharan countries. “What I like most about the African Market is that, even though it is close to the main Jemaa el Fna square, it feels hidden and far from the tourist hordes,” say Ifrach. “I don’t even want to say exactly where it is to not give away the secret!” (Tip: It is located behind Restaurant Argana—in between two old vintage shops there is an alley that leads to a patio full of very small shops full of artifacts from Subsaharan Africa.) Part of its “special atmosphere,” says Ifrach, is the fact that “vendors there are not pushy, since they know what kind of treasures they have in their hands. So they just wait for people who know and appreciate the value of their wares to show up.” Ifrach often heads here to look for vintage pieces to use in his designs. “There is always a good variety of colors and textures to be found,” he says.

While history surrounds you in Marrakech, there is also a vibrant modern art scene that keeps the city fresh and lively. Ifrach seeks out this side of the city at spots like Le 18 (18 Derb el Ferrane, Riad Laarous; +212-5-2438-9864), a restored riad in the medina where artists (including artists-in-residence) come together to exchange cultural and artistic ideas. "It’s a very special place for me, and it belongs to one my dearest friends, the photographer Laila Hida," says Ifrach. She has created a place of freedom in the medina, where artists from both sides of the Mediterranean Sea can have open and honest conversations about their art and influences. It’s always worth a visit," says Ifrach. Another favorite spot is Voice Gallery (La Conserverie, Rue Salah Eddine Al Ayoubi; +212-6-5848-2800), which showcases "the best of contemporary art in Marrakech," from bold paintings to thought-provoking installations, in both indoor and outdoor spaces.

Ifrah’s style sensibilities—and love of textiles—are similarly celebrated at Soufiane Zarib (Rue Riad Laarous, +212-6-6185-3487), a chic carpet showroom located “in a very vibrant area of the Medina,” the designer notes. “It’s a bit like entering Ali Baba’s cave,” Ifrah says of visiting the space, which overflows with carpets and rugs in a dazzling array of colors and textures. The current proprietor—a third-generation tradesman—draws on traditional techniques to create his wares, but infuses the designs with a more modern style and unique (sometimes vintage) materials, resulting in what Ifrah describes as a “new take” on the famous Moroccan artisanal product. Signatures like the Beni Ourain rug—a fluffy ecru base emblazoned with rhombuses—have proved particularly popular with visitors from Paris and beyond (including lots of fashion and interior designers), who appreciate that the pieces work well in contemporary spaces.

For fashionable souvenirs that reflect Moroccan techniques—but will seem at home anywhere in the world—Ifrach suggests a stop at Marrakshi Life (Quartier Industriel al Massar 933, Route de Safi; +212-5-2435-8802), a shop and weaving atelier founded in 2013 by New York City expat and fashion photographer, Randall Bachner. “The fact that they produce their own fabrics makes the clothing very special,” Ifrach says, “while the clean cuts make the pieces very contemporary and wearable.” Using traditional weaving methods and drawing upon the expertise of local artisans, Bachner and his in-house team create sustainable, low-impact—but decidedly high-end—clothing for both men and women. “I love the twist he puts on Moroccan kaftans,” says Ifrach. “They are a must, as are his pajama-style suits. I have one myself.”