Mediterranean Wonders

Majorca’s long history extends to a Phoenician settlement and Roman occupation. Today, Palma, a lively, modern, capital city, preserves its striking old town, or casco antiguo, a labyrinth of narrow streets and remnant of its Moorish past, including Arab baths, and old manor houses with lush garden courtyards. Here, also is the majestic Cathedral, known as La Seu (Plaza Almoina; +34-902-022-445), adjacent to the Royal Palace of the Almudaina (Carrer del Palau Reial; +34-971-21-41-34), the official summer residence of the Spanish monarchs. It incorporates the site of an Arabian fortress, rebuilt as a castle in the 14th century by Jaime II. Nearby is the magnificent gothic cloister, with citrus and palm trees, of the 13th-century Basilica de Sant Francesc (7 Plaça de Sant Francesc; +34-971-712-695).

Es Baluard (10 Plaça de la Porta de Santa Catalina; +34-971-90-82-00), a museum of modern and contemporary art, strikingly set within the Renaissance walls of a bastion, has a collection that includes Joan Miró, Picasso, Antoni Tàpies, Jaume Plensa, as well as the Majorcan artist Miquel Barceló, and Rebecca Horn. Its watchtower has sweeping views of the Bay of Palma. Visiting the Juan March Foundation Museum (11 Sant Miquel; +34-971-71-35-15) is akin to entering a 17th-century residence, albeit one filled with superb 20th-century Spanish art, including works by Juan Gris and Salvador Dalí, and an extensive group of prints by Picasso.

For an introduction to the flavors and traditions of Majorcan gastronomy, with contemporary flair, one should begin with Arrels Restaurant by Marga Coll at Gran Meliá de Mar. Also at the hotel, few experiences may be as romantic—or memorable—as a private dinner overlooking the sea. Elsewhere in Majorca, Zaranda renowned for the innovative cuisine of chef Fernando P. Arellano (Castell Son Claret, Km. 1.7 Carretera Capdella; +34-680-60-25-80) is set in a castle dating back to the 15th-century, amid the foothills of the Tramuntana range. Less formal places in Palma are Es Forn de Sant Joan (4 Carrer de Sant Joan; +34-971-728-422) known for its tapas and lively bar as well as its enticing dining rooms. The recently opened Vandal (15 Plaça del Progrés; +34-871-045-174), offers a menu reflecting the flavors Asia, South and North America, as well as Spanish influences. For seafood, Ola de Mar (1 Carrer Vicario Joaquín Fuster, Portixol; +34-971-274-275) along the coast or Peix Vermell (1 Carrer Montenegro; +34-971-079-374) in the casco antiguo serve some of the best dishes in town. Lastly one cannot leave Majorca without indulging in ensaimadas, the traditional Majorcan pastry, or a tasty gató, a typical almond cake, accompanied by almond ice cream at Ca’n Joan de S’aigo (10 Carrer Can Sanc; +34-971-710-759).

Pack a lunch for a walk or hike along one of the three routes of the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are spectacular vistas at every turn from lookouts along a landscape defined by paths, terraces, stone walls, and watchtowers. Villages such as Valldemossa and Deià reward introspection—the former, the site of Cartoixa de Valldemossa (La Cartoixa, Plaça de la Cartoixa; +34-971-612-106; cartoixadevalldemossa.com) where composer, Frédéric Chopin, accompanied by the writer, George Sand and her children stayed in 1838. In Deià you’ll find La Casa de Robert Graves (Carretera Deià a Sóller, Deià; +34-971-63-61-85), the former home of the eponymous British writer. High among the mountains lies the atmospheric Lluc Sanctuary (1 Plaça dels Peregrins, Escorca; +34-971-871-525), a medieval monastery and pilgrimage site, considered the spiritual center of Tramuntana.

Each summer, the Copa del Rey takes place in the waters near the Gran Meliá, starting from the Real Club Náutico de Palma (Muelle de San Pere). The regatta of racing vessels from throughout the Mediterranean attracts 140 teams from nearly 25 countries. King Felipe VI, an avid sailor and a member of Spain’s 1992 Olympic team, and members of the Spanish royal family are among those cheering on fast-paced sailing. In September, the Mallorca Classic Week features a cavalcade of automobiles, from cabriolets to sports cars. Participants begin at Port Adriano, about 20 minutes from the hotel, and drive throughout the streets and coastal roads of the island, displaying vehicles ranging from a Rolls Royce Phantom II, 1950 Mercedes Benz Cabriolet, and 1968 Jaguar, to a Corvette Stingray, to the delight of visitors and residents alike.