Lost And Found In La Serenissima

The world-famous Aperol Spritz traces its origins to Padova, just west of Venice, so it’s no surprise that it’s the cocktail of choice for aperitivo all over the Veneto region. Do as the Italians do and pair yours with tidbits like cheese, prosciutto, crostini, and other snacks. Venetians call these small bites cicchetti, and you’ll find them in bars and osterias throughout the city. In Cannaregio, Fondamenteria della Misericordia is home to several great venues, including Al Timon (2754 Fondamenta degli Ormesini; +39-041-524-6066), where you can sip a Spritz and nibble on cicchetti on a boat docked in the canal. In a lively square called Campo Santa Margherita in Dorsoduro, Osteria alla Bifora (2930 Campo Santa Margherita; +39-041-523-6119) is another great option. The atmospheric restaurant sports traditional Venetian charm, with dark wooden tables, a marble bar, and Murano glass chandeliers. Alice recommends the creamy whipped codfish known as baccalà mantecato, and sarde in saor (sardines in a sweet and sour sauce made with onions and raisins)—two of the most quintessential cicchetti you’ll taste in Venice.

The best gelato in Venice? It’s impossible to choose just one place, but luckily there are three excellent gelaterias near the hotel—perfect for a sweet treat after a romantic dinner at the on-site Ristorante GLAM, helmed by acclaimed chef, Enrico Bartolini. Known for his Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan, Bartolini has embraced Venetian cuisine, sourcing vegetables from Giudecca Island, buying fish from Rialto Market, and growing his own herbs in a corner of the hotel’s garden.

A couple of blocks away, Fontego delle Dolcezze (1910 Santa Croce; +39-041-721424) scoops artisanal gelato with unusual flavors like ricotta and pear. The charming Gelato di Natura (4455 Strada Nova; +39-340-286-7178) serves super-creamy delights made using the highest quality ingredients, including fresh fruit and Sicilian pistachios. Majer (1630 Santa Croce; +39-041-721-1415), part of a chain of bakeries, cafés, bars, and ice cream shops, is the most commercial of the three. You’ll spot the name all over Venice, and can count on it as an emblem of quality.

Between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge, a little-known masterpiece of Renaissance architecture is worth a visit. Commissioned at the end of the 14th century by Doge Andrea Contarini, the Scala Contarini del Bovolo (4303 San Marco; +39-041-309-6605) is a beautiful staircase in the shape of a snail’s shell. The construction mixes Renaissance, Gothic, and Byzantine elements, resulting in a structure that’s been compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. A loggia on the second floor leads to the Sala del Tintoretto, a gallery of 16th and 17th century paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, Nicolò Bambini, and Sebastiano Ricci. After admiring these masterpieces, keep climbing to the top, where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Venice’s red rooftops, narrow canals, domed cathedrals, and the bell tower of the Basilica di San Marco.

Venice’s strong tradition of artistry and craftsmanship is alive and well on the outlying islands of Murano and Burano. Alice and the team at Palazzo Venart are happy to arrange a half-day tour combining the two isles. A private water taxi will pick you up in the morning and bring you to a glassblowing workshop called Linea Arte Murano (1 Fondamenta Manin; +39-041-736845). After the demonstration, you can shop for original vases, chandeliers, goblets, and other decorative items.

Wander around and have lunch or go straight to Burano. With its brightly painted houses, this little island is perfect for photo ops. There, you’ll visit Dalla Lidia (215 Via Galuppi; +39-041-730052), a museum and atelier where artisans still hand-embroider intricate lace clothing and textiles the same way they’ve been doing for centuries.

Venice’s canals aren’t just for gondolas and water taxis—spend some time walking around and you’ll see people kayaking and rowing. Voga alla veneta is a style of rowing that dates back to the 6th century and is still practiced on the lagoon. Instead of sitting, as you would in a canoe or kayak, voga alla veneta involves rowing standing up in a shallow wooden boat resembling a gondola. Avid rowers compete in races, like the Regatta Storica that occurs the first Sunday of every September.

Try it yourself with Row Venice (468/B Santa Croce; +39-347-7250-0637), a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving la Serenissima’s aquatic culture. Take a standard 90-minute lesson or opt for a 2.5-hour session, with stops for cicchetti. You can also do a guided kayaking tour of the lagoon with Venice Kayak (1858 Castello; +39-346-477-1327).